Monday, November 28, 2011

Weekend Trip to Busan

A couple of weekends ago, the boys and I went to Busan, an east coast city, to visit some of RJ's friends. We arrived late that night after a relaxing trip on the KTX which is similar to the bullet train in Japan. We went out to a club that was called "Ghetto" which was a lot of fun- nothing like I thought a Korean club would be like. There was a lot of smoke, a lot of people dancing like they had seizures, and a lot of American hip-hop. I knew about 90 percent of the songs that came on, and when they did come on, it was only for a minute or less before the DJ changed to a different track.
Being the DJ at a club in Korea seems like a tough job. It requires picking a good techno- related song and having some good dance moves. When people aren't sure how to sway to the beat, they look towards the DJ to set the moves. I guess that's why they changed DJ's about every half hour to an hour. It must be tiring!
Saturday we did my favorite past time: went shopping! Well, we didn't actually shop much, just walked around a large department store. The Guinness Book of World Records' largest department store to be exact. It was truly amazing- anything a gal could ask for in one place. There were floors of food, clothes, shoes, accessories, and they even had a golf range, spa, movie theater, and sports center. It was definitely a sight to see. At points, we had to search to find things that didn't break the bank but I did seem to find a very nice trench coat that was inexpensive and fit perfectly- size and style wise.
Before walking around, we hit the food court. There were stands upon stands that served all different kinds of food- most of which looked incredibly appetizing. I got a roll of Korean style Japanese sushi (not Kimbap which is the traditional Korean sushi) and a cheese and chicken roll/wrap. Everyone else in the group couldn't resist the hamburger joint and devoured it upon delivery. Here are some pictures of the delicious (and some not so delicious) looking foods they offered in the food court.

Tasty treats in Shinsegae Mall - this was a piece of bread that was fluffy on the  inside  with butter yet had a hard exterior and sprinkled with chocolate chips
Fried rice stuffed squid...I didn't actually eat this, just took a picture.
Korean pumpkin filled with other vegetables
Savory crepes
Cupcakes!  They looked to be a good rival of Coastal Cupcakes!
Fruit on a stick- almost everything here was on a stick.
The view from the roof of Shinsegae Mall (about 14 floors high)

No big deal, just an adorable group of Korean kids sharing a tub of ice cream.
View from the other side

More of RJ's friends had come and so there was a large group of us before we knew it. It was raining but that didn't stop the festivities that ensued. This partic
ular weekend, in America was known for celebrating Halloween, but in Busan, it was the fireworks festival. Now, knowing Busan as the location of the largest department store, you have to know that they won't just have any sort of fireworks display. This made the fireworks in Wilmington look like what you could buy at a dinky roadside
stand on the way to the South of the Border...and with that
, there isn't much to say about the ones in Vienna. Well, this f
ireworks show lasted for a solid 45 minutes before finishing with a breathtaking grand finale. There was never a break in bursts. It was a sight to see- and would have been much better if we didn't have to stand in the rain while it happened. Rain always seems to find its way arriving at the worst times.



After the show, we went out again downtown. There were some people dressed in Halloween costumes but the majority was not- I think I made the right decision when I chose not to wear mine.
That night, we all slept in a jjimjilbong. This is a bath house with individual floors for men and women- and then a co-ed floor where everyone sleeps. It's was a comfortably heated room so there is no need for blankets and the pillows were wood blocks that help support your neck. When I say floor, I literally mean floor, no beds. Well, we had a good time out- and didn't get back until around the time that the bars close which was about 4 or 5 AM. By the time we got a mid-morning snack, took a dip in the baths, and arrived at the sleeping floor, it was around the time for everyone to start getting up. So, beside the fact that you don't get pillows or blankets when on the sleeping floor, people getting up and some high school boys thinking it's a good idea to horse around in the room- we didn't get much sleep.
After getting up, regrouping, and getting lunch, it was time to leave. Because of the fireworks festival, the city was packed and in turn, getting out of the city was rough. All of the trains were full except for one- the Mugunghwa. Even though it's named after Korea's national flower, this train trip was anything but pleasant. It was standing and a little bit of sitting for hours before arriving home. Those trains never sell out so there were always more people getting on at every stop then there were getting off. With every wave of people that came on, sitting room depleted. There were people shoved in corners, behind doors, and all were fighting for a place to sit. Jeremy got nudged out of the way when an old lady squeezed her way into the closest seat. That train was one I know not to take in the future.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Weather and other things


It's starting to get colder and colder each day. Yesterday was the first day that I saw frost on the ground. When we talk about the weather with the Koreans, they sometimes bring up the harvesting of kimchi. Kimchi, the traditional dish that Korea is known for, is prepared this time of year. It is a big event where barrels and barrels of cabbage strew the streets. They let it soak in salty water for several hours before covering it with spicy seasonings and other toppings.


When walking to my rural school, I cross over a river. One thing I like about the walk is there are always a little family of ducklings that hang out by the bridge I cross. It makes my day to watch them play in the water and quack to each other.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Fooooood!

One thing I love here is the food. The salty and spicy dishes that are made from the same ingredients yet always seem to have a different taste. We have been to many restaurants and marked some of them as ones to go to again. A list of foods has been started and is added onto every day. There are some things that I would have again, and then some things that I remembered the name of just so I don't run across it again.
Here are some of the meals we have had:

This is the first western burger place I went to since being here. This is a 'frisco burger' with a steamed patty, bell peppers, lettuce, tomato, an extremely processed and breaded flap of cheese, and olives. Didn't look very appetizing.... I just got a cheeseburger which was pretty good for being made in Korea. But the fast food here is not nearly as fast as it is in America- they tell us 6 minutes before our food is ready, which I am not complaining about. It makes me think they made the burger with care, all neatly wrapped and perfectly stacked.


The set-up of the side dishes. Here are some pickled cabbages, pickled cucumbers- or just pickles, some steamed octopus, steamed broccoli, potato cakes- which are always delicious, and in the back are potatoes in mayo. They seem to really like mayo here and put it on a lot of things. I went to dinner with my teachers this night.

Below are some homemade rice cakes. They are sticky and have all sorts of nuts and dried fruits on the outside. They are pretty yummy but I wish they were slightly sweeter.









Above is banana milk- my favorite drink here in Korea!
Below is a menu at a soup shop. Most Korean restaurants are specialty shops where they focus on making one kind of meal. The shop normally includes the dish in their name.

Like I said in the previous post, the water here is not purified so with every meal they bring out a bottle of purified water before you order- there is one in the top left hand side of the picture below. They also give slightly damp hand towels.


Here are some pictures from when Jeremy and I went out to dinner. We got kalbi which is a kind of meat. This kind was marinated chicken and came with some pretty delicious side dishes, except for one. At the bottom of the picture below there is what looks like coleslaw but it's not, it is weird tasting salad dressing over top shredded cabbage. The taste is an indescribable tangy yet sour with a creamy feeling. Not my favorite by far.


In the background of the picture above is the marinated meat.



Now, the two pictures below are two things that were not necessarily bad but I just don't think I will have them again. The first one was something that I had at the soup shop. I just said the name and waited for it to be delivered to me. I had no clue what I was getting. When it came out, it looked like that. It smelled like tofu, tasted like tofu, and looked just like a darker tofu- so I assumed it was tofu. I researched to eventually find out that 선지해장국 is....... processed and congealed cow's blood. I have never had black pudding before and probably never will again but it's just knowing what it is. Between me and you, it wasn't all that bad. Oh, and Jeremy had a sort of beef stew (bulgolgi) - he stayed on the safe side when ordering. In the middle of the table is one of my favorite side dishes: kimchi radish!



Flower tea- one of the office staff made some for me. It tastes exactly like you are drinking....flower water.



Monday, November 7, 2011

Coming soon!

More to come: information on my apartment, last couple of weekends, and the food!

Personal insights on Korea


Now, I am warning you in advance, this is probably going to be a very long post. I am going to try and catch up what happened the last couple of weeks, so brace yourself

Sometimes I wish I just kept a small notebook or something in my back pocket everywhere I went. There are always things I think of or see that I want to write down but never remember after the fact. The past couple of weeks have just flown by and I find myself with no extra time during the day. I have started teaching at my first school, Janggi, and they have me booked from morning until afternoon with teaching, reading books to students, and learning Korean. Yes, I am taking classes with my Vice Principal every Monday-Wednesday morning, which is great! The only thing about it is we are using a little kids Korean book so all of the vocabulary so far has been semi-useless. It involves family members, animals, and school vocabulary. I have a feeling I wont need to be calling anyone Mom here but if I do, I am prepared. The picture is of the hallways in Janggi.

School- the schools I teach at are great, the kids are great, and the food is great (I will talk more about that one later). One thing I noticed while teaching was the kind of students that are in the classes. In Korea, they do not separate mentally disabled students from others. There are at least 10 students in the two schools that have learning disabilities. Normally they will just be in their own world or trying to follow along but are just lost. The one thing that confuses me, is they are tested on the same level as everyone else. This seems unproductive because they are obviously behind all of the other students. This week we tested the 4th graders on the lesson they just finished. They had to listen to sentences to match pictures with prices, spell words, and recite a dialogue (the name of the lesson was ‘How much is it?’). The dialogue is just something they are expected to memorize (I will talk more about this later). All of the kids successfully regurgitated the dialogue word for word, except for one. It was as if he was listening along when all of the students would uniformly recite the dialogue during class but he had no idea what the meaning of each word was or how to spell it. When it was his turn to individually recite the dialogue to me, he just blurted out gibberish in the correct up and down tone of the sentences. It just showed that he was very behind but no one was helping him catch up, they knew he wasn’t on the same level as everyone else, but seemed fine with it.

Memorizing: I think just about all of the classes that Korean children take are based off of books. The teachers use books, CDs, and workbooks for every subject, including math. This is where I wish I was part of this- there is another English teacher that works at my schools but she teaches the kids in Korean. She uses all of the English materials and I am just left high and dry trying to figure out lesson plans from scratch. When learning English, the students are just supposed to memorize sentences and phrases instead of understanding how to actually read them. They can recite a sentence that was written in their books, but once you take the book away from them and write the same sentence, just re-worded, they have absolutely no clue what it means (which is what I have been trying to do- have them understand the meaning of each word and sentence).

There is a annual English competition called the Golden Bell- there are three students chosen to represent their schools, two for speaking and one for writing. Instead of the judges asking the students questions and basing their scores off of their answers, the speaking students must memorize 10 pages of dialogue from their books. From those 10, 2 will randomly be chosen at the contest and they must recite them in front of the judges. I helped students at both schools with their memorization and pronunciation of the dialogues in which both sets of students sounded like native English speakers- they practiced day and night for this contest. From that, I assumed they were able to understand more than the other students- but I was wrong. They just memorized exactly how to say each word, each sentence, and each dialogue until it sounded perfect. This way of learning just doesnt seem helpful but I guess the Korean government thinks otherwise.

I am finally completely settled in at this point. I have received my Alien Registration Card- which is practically a foreigners drivers license, a bank account (and my first paycheck!!), and a cell phone. Getting a phone took a lot of time and money to set up but now that we have it, it is so much easier to get around and communicate with others. When we didnt have a cell phone, we would have to use a pay phone, and the first time we tried using it, we had some trouble. Not because we are too technologically savvy to understand those phone boxes that are attached to a wall, but because it was all in Korean and the phone practically screams at you when it is trying to connect you to the other party. I was actually surprised as to how many pay phones there are in Korea. Maybe I never noticed them in America, but I feel like it was rare to find one on the side of the street….and to actually be working.

One thing I noticed while traveling in Korea is the trash issue. Now, I have been to Japan and from what Ive seen, Korea seems like it tried to mimic Japans trash system but failed miserably. In America, you can find a trashcan just about anywhere. I remember hiking with my Dad once and seeing a trashcan on the way up the mountain-it seemed strange but I guess it was a way of having people not litter. In Japan, they were very strict on how to throw away trash. Everything had to be separated. Green bags were for things that could be burned like paper and scraps of food, pink bags were for things that needed to be recycled, and the white ones were for whatever else was left that could not be recycled or burned (I think those were the colors). Every Tuesday was trash night at my school in Japan and when Tuesday came around; everyone would bring their trash out to be inspected before thrown away. When I say inspected, I literally meant it. Volunteers would hold the bags up and look to see if something was in the bag that shouldnt have been. It was weird to me but I guess very useful. Since Japan is such a small island, they do not have room for dumps or heaps of garbage, so they have to do as much as possible to get rid of what they dont need.

Well, in Korea, I have seen the green bags around. You actually have to buy them individually at the grocery stores. Instead of using grocery bags at the store, they sell the trash bags so you can use them to take groceries home and then later use it as a trash bag- convenient! Instead of Koreans just using the green bags though, they use any kind of bag. Some days, when walking down the street, there will be bags upon bags of trash sitting on the side of the road just waiting to be picked up. And I still am not sure what day trash pick-up is. Unlike America, Korea does not have trashcans anywhere in the city. If you have some trash, you either hold on to it until you get home or you just put it on a pile of trash that you come across on the side of the road. Some people even litter- I saw three little boys sitting at the bus stop enjoying breakfast before school and they just left all of their wrappers on the ground.

I think Koreans know they have a littering problem but just accept it and make jobs from it. Instead of making laws to stop people from littering, they just hire more people to pick up the mess. At night, they have workers come out with rickshaws to pick up trash. They carry around what look like hand-made brooms and clean the streets and sidewalks. During the day, old people are the ones that clean. I am pretty sure Korea does not have retirement homes- instead elders live with their families and during the day they clean or work on the farms (at least in my area they do). There are always a group of elders cleaning the highway that I pass over to go to school in the mornings. They pick up the trash and then burn it on the side of the road… crafty old people! They keep themselves warm with the fire on chilly mornings.

Besides littering, Koreans have some pretty crazy laws. If there is a law for stopping at red lights, they dont follow them. Around here, everyone I have talked to has said they feel very safe in Korea and I agree. The only way we imagine ourselves getting hurt, is getting hit by a car. I have only seen one accident, but I swear there must be more. The way Koreans drive can get pretty crazy and most of the streets are the size of one-way roads in America. They also do not stop at red lights or crosswalks, unless they see pedestrians. If there is a pedestrian, they will stop but if they dont see you or if everyone has already crossed; they will run the red light. It seems like instead of a red light- it is what us Americans think of as a flashing yellow light- yield or slow down (but the thing is, they have those lights here!). They also don’t seem to care as much about child safety- or maybe Americans are overprotective. I have ridden in a car with a young child that was not in a car seat, or is even wearing a seatbelt! I saw a little boy standing on the passenger’s seat of a moving vehicle the other day. Crazy.

The food here is exceptional. I love it so much- and think it is probably the best part about Korea. The women that work in the cafeteria at my schools really dont get enough credit for the amazing things they make. I am completely satisfied every time I leave the cafeteria. One thing that I should be used to but havent gotten the hang of it yet is not drinking while eating. The Koreans eat their food, and then after they are finished, they all gather around the water/tea dispenser and drink a cup before leaving. Sometimes it can be hard because the foods can be very spicy so you just have to eat quickly and then get something to drink. I sometimes find myself coughing from the spiciness and find that chugging the soup (which is also normally spicy) or eating a big mouthful of rice helps.

I think Americans in general just drink more water then Koreans- maybe because you have to boil the water here before drinking it because it is not purified yet. One thing that reminds me of the Polish (or at least my Polish family) is pleasing the chef with an empty plate. The way to show the chefs appreciation for a great meal is by finishing everything on your plate and going back for seconds. This wouldnt be a problem because all of the food tastes so good, but they give everyone huge portions when served. I dont eat much in general and some of these kids can definitely out-eat me any day. It surprises me that most Koreans are skinny- since they eat so much. Speaking of the size of Koreans- I think if you are chubby in Korea, a sense of humor comes along with the stature. Every single chubby kid in my classes is hilarious. Its as if the inherit the quirky personality with every pound they put on.

Koreans are very big on sharing. I guess they dont have a problem which germs. Yes, some people wear face masks, but I think they do this because they are sick and do not want anyone else to get sick. Something that I am still trying to stop, is saying bless you. They dont say anything when people sneeze hereand they definitely dont cover their mouths most of the time either. It makes me nervous, because if any of you know my immune system, its terrible. I contract sicknesses very easily- thankfully I have discovered a vitamin C powder and drink that I take if I am feeling sick. One of my sweet students gave me a packet before class. It seems to work almost instantly!

The bathrooms here normally dont have their own toilet paper. There is either a communal roll that you have to grab before you go into an individual stall, or there just isnt any at all. I have learned to always carry a stack of just in case tissues with me. They are also big on using bars of soap. I have only seen one place here that uses liquid soap and it’s actually the texture of lotion- I thought it was lotion the first time I used it.